Windscreen and Dash Pad Replacement
I was the first person to remove and windscreen frame and dash pad from the car (along with the wood dash and cubby). The dash pad was original and cracked. Notes....comments.... suggestions....
Step 1: Find a Guru (thanks Bill Martin) or other person who has placed the actual glass into the frame using the rope method. As I have very bad luck with all things glass (shattered the 1st brand new screen as I walked out into Bill's shop, LOL), he kindly provided the expertise and allowed me to focus on the dash.
Step 2: The original dash pad has a foam backing (yellow) under the vinil surface. The vinil and this backing are both significantly more thin than replacement pieces. I sourced from both a UK vendor (no pre cut holes) and SS (thanks Rick, pre-cut)...both are THICK compared to OE/post 50 years.
Step 3: Shave and sand down new dashpad to simulate OE pad, but in my case I left a little foam for glue adhesion purposes and I assumed some squish from installation.
Step 4: Note OE rubber is damn close to Repop, but that OE uses "Seelastik" caulk material under the rubber between rubber and dash pad. Contact cement was used to glue bottom of dash pad to cowel. Note that as the cowel had been repainted, this was prepped with sanding and chem clean to allow good tack
Step 5: BEFORE placing the dash pad, note that there will be small screws for a tonneau into the pad and cowel. But your repop wont have holes. Drill a hole through cowling where you have those holes on top, all the way down though under dash metal. this allows paperclip or similar to push UP and locate your needed new pad holes for screws.
Step 6: Now your contact glue is ready anyway... place and pray (or reverse)...to align properly. If glue still wet, it may allow some positioning. GLWT.
Step 7:
I was the first person to remove and windscreen frame and dash pad from the car (along with the wood dash and cubby). The dash pad was original and cracked. Notes....comments.... suggestions....
Step 1: Find a Guru (thanks Bill Martin) or other person who has placed the actual glass into the frame using the rope method. As I have very bad luck with all things glass (shattered the 1st brand new screen as I walked out into Bill's shop, LOL), he kindly provided the expertise and allowed me to focus on the dash.
Step 2: The original dash pad has a foam backing (yellow) under the vinil surface. The vinil and this backing are both significantly more thin than replacement pieces. I sourced from both a UK vendor (no pre cut holes) and SS (thanks Rick, pre-cut)...both are THICK compared to OE/post 50 years.
Step 3: Shave and sand down new dashpad to simulate OE pad, but in my case I left a little foam for glue adhesion purposes and I assumed some squish from installation.
Step 4: Note OE rubber is damn close to Repop, but that OE uses "Seelastik" caulk material under the rubber between rubber and dash pad. Contact cement was used to glue bottom of dash pad to cowel. Note that as the cowel had been repainted, this was prepped with sanding and chem clean to allow good tack
Step 5: BEFORE placing the dash pad, note that there will be small screws for a tonneau into the pad and cowel. But your repop wont have holes. Drill a hole through cowling where you have those holes on top, all the way down though under dash metal. this allows paperclip or similar to push UP and locate your needed new pad holes for screws.
Step 6: Now your contact glue is ready anyway... place and pray (or reverse)...to align properly. If glue still wet, it may allow some positioning. GLWT.
Step 7: